Microdermabrasion 101

Microdermabrasion

What is microdermabrasion? If you’re a skin-obsessed, anti-aging supplicant like me, you already are very familiar with this procedure. But if you’re not, let’s break it down and try to make this digestible for you.

Micro (small) – derm (relating to skin) – abrasion (scraping or wearing something away). That’s pretty much it. It is the process of using fine grit abrasive materials to wear away a layer of your skin to reveal fresh new skin and promote healing that stimulates collagen production. It pairs exfoliation (the abrasion part) with suction to whisk the dead cells away and leave you looking fresh and glowy.

Have you ever sanded wood smooth? It’s basically the same thing with a very fine grit.

Why Would Anyone Do This?!

Microdermabrasion can be effective for fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage, skin rejuvenation, acne scars, melasma, age spots, and other skin conditions. The bonus is that unlike a more aggressive skin resurfacing like a chemical peel, there’s almost no down time to microdermabrasion. You may have a little redness, a little tenderness, and possibly a little swelling if your skin is very sensitive.

It SOUNDS bad but it really doesn’t hurt. I promise.

Let’s Talk Exfoliation

Exfoliation is the removal of the dead skin cells on the outer layer of your skin. That’s really the spectrum microdermabrasion falls into. You may also hear this called skin resurfacing. It’s all talking about the same thing.

  1. Daily Chemical Exfoliation – Skincare with ingredients like glycolic acid and lactic acid are formulated for daily use. They gently breakdown the bond between dead skin cells so they can release from your skin and reveal the newer skin underneath. For my skin, this is probably the gentlest step I use and it’s part of my daily routine.
  2. Physical Exfoliation – Think of facial scrubs that have a little grit. My preference is sugar scrubs because many other physical exfoliators are just too harsh on our faces. Do you remember those scrubs that had ground up almond shells? I shudder at the thought! This could also be a gentle loofah, washcloth, or cleansing brush.
  3. Dermaplaning – Do you remember me talking before about shaving your face? That’s what dermaplaning is. It’s technically a form of mechanical or physical exfoliation which removes the light hair and dead skin on your face. Have you ever wondered why men who shave age so beautifully. Yup. This is part of the reason. Frequency on this can be weekly or monthly. I have friends who do this weekly. I personally find that monthly is enough for me. I like to be gentle on my skin.
  4. Microdermabrasion – I would personally rank this about fourth in the level of severity. You can still do this weekly if you feel the need. It’s truly not much different than the dermaplaning except the method is different.
    I’m a woodworker so I would explain it as the difference between using a draw knive or sanding paper to finish. Both can have beautiful outcomes. You don’t need both but they do work differently to achieve their result.
  5. Chemical Peel – I’ve never had this done but know people who have. While there are home versions, frankly this terrifies me. It’s basically burning off the outer layer of your skin using chemicals. They can be mild or aggressive but typically have some downtime and healing related to them. They will always be my last resort.

NOTE: Anytime you remove layers of your skin, remember to protect the new skin underneath with sunscreen and physical protection like hats and umbrellas. You don’t want to undo the good you’re trying to achieve.

Frequency

The first four options above all require repeat treatment for both outcome and maintenance. The first one I do daily because it’s so gentle. I personally skip the second category because I don’t like how it feels and I don’t think it produces phenomenal results. I use either three or four monthly. But that is always subject to change based on what my skin needs. Chemical peels last a while. They can be performed multiple times but I think it’s usually years or at least a lot of months between them.

Cost

Again, to be candid, I have never had microdermabrasion in an office setting. I only know from doing online research that a single session may cost you a bit over $100. I don’t think that’s bad, but knowing that you need multiple treatments over time to get and keep results – well you know me by now – I’m always looking for an alternative.

At Home Treatment

Fortunately for me, there are wonderful at home treatment options. If you look online, you can easily find the professional machines available for purchase. I shy away from these because I figure there’s training for a reason. They are more expensive and I have serious (perhaps unfounded) concerns that I might do more harm than good. I like to stick with the machines intended for at home use.

I have two different machines so I’ll give you a run down on the differences so you are armed to make decisions if you decide to follow my footsteps.

Riiviva v. PMD Microderm

I’ve owned a Riiviva Microdermabrasion tool for…years! Possibly more than eight! When I first purchased it, I was very excited about working on my fine lines in the comfort of my own home.

Riiviva Microdermabrasion Tool

I quickly discovered that this tool, though highly rated, wasn’t for me. The filters weren’t an issue, the suction was extremely gentle, but I thought the head would spin. It’s more like a professional machine in that it does NOT spin. You gently drag it across your skin and the diamond grit is supposed to remove the top layer of skin. I definitely saw a difference. It’s just that I never felt comfortable with the amount of pressure I should use.

When I purchased the tool, it was over $200. It’s been so long I no longer have the receipt but I can confirm the ballpark. I’m honestly not sure if they are even made any more. I went to their product page and it’s not clear if they sell only the tips or the entire machine.

The takeaway here is to decide if you want a head that you drag across the skin or not. The internet is littered with different options of tools at different price points. This one feature difference feels important to me as you make decisions.

The PMD Personal Microderm Elite Pro is the top end that PMD sells. This will run you $299, though it’s worth keeping your eyes open for sales (see the bottom of the post!). I wanted to get the top end so I had the full range of the capabilities to test for review purposes but there are other options that cost less. Their starting product the PMD Personal Microderm Classic is still hefty at $159 but obviously less than the cadillac.

PMD Personal Microderm Elite Pro

As you can see, this version comes with a lot more pieces for variety and functionality. The thing I love about the PMD is that the head (set down inside the cap) spins. This means that as long as you have contact with your skin, you can move the tool slowly across your face and it does the work. That takes the guess work out for me. I’ve only used it with the lightest disc on the lightest suction setting and I think that will keep me happy for a long while!

Side by Side

Here’s a side by side of the two machines. They are both rechargeable. They both have multiple suction strength. They are both easy to hold. I have fairly small hands and found them both comfortable to grip. The different caps for the PMD allow you to exfoliate larger parts of your body like your heels, elbows, feet. The discs are replaceable and come in different sizes to fit the diameter in the top of the respective caps. The Riiviva also has interchangeable heads which can be replaced every six months with regular use.

Though I have my personal preference, I think they are both fine machines, based on what you are looking for. If you are comfortable providing the pressure, you may feel that the Riiviva or a fixed head machine like it will work just fine. If you are like me and prefer the notion of the spinning disc, then the PMD Personal Microderm device, or one like it, may suit you better.

Bottom Line

Before you run out and purchase an at home microdermabrasion device, just wait a minute. While I think they are wonderful tools and definitely can have a place in your anti-aging skincare routine – they are not necessary.

Let me repeat that.

They are not necessary.

If you have a regular mild chemical exfoliator in your daily routine, you will probably not get as much benefit from this as someone who does not. If you dermaplane regularly, you don’t need both.

However, if running a razor across your face freaks you out or if you can’t abide adding one more thing to your daily routine, then I think this could be a wonderful tool for you.

The nice thing is, with different discs for sanitary concerns, you can share it with family members. You can perform at home spa treatments on friends and family. You can get a lifetime of pampering from it for a single cost.

I certainly tend to collect gadgets but I have a bigger picture.

One day I will be on a fixed budget. And though I’m not currently staring down retirement, the advantage of investing in these at home treatment tools is that I know I will be able to continue to pamper myself when I may not want to spend money on services. I found them extremely useful during the pandemic so that also factors into my cost:benefit analysis.

Shhh – you didn’t hear it from me – PMD is running a 30% off site wide special right now through the end of July 2021. The code is JULY. If not for you, then maybe an early holiday purchase for someone who might love this.

I am not compensated for any of this. All the money spent was my own and all of my opinions are my own. I will get NOTHING based on any choices you make – so I’m totally unbiased!

What do you think? Will you try microdermabrasion?

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