Vitamin C and Your Skin

Now that we have the foundation from last week under our belts, we can move on to the real skinny on how to keep our skin healthy. Our skin is one of our largest organs and like other parts of our body, it needs both nutrients and protection to do its job well. Today we are focusing on the role of Vitamin C.

Our skin uses vitamin C to build collagen to keep it looking young, supple, and bright. The vitamin C comes from our diet. It is pulled from our blood and diverted into our dermis and epidermis to create the structure that keeps our skin healthy. As we age though, we naturally start to lose vitamin C which also loses the collagen structure. The vitamin C is depleted as we are exposed to ultra violet radiation (sunshine).

The good news is that vitamin C applied to our skin (topical) is readily absorbed for use – even faster than if we have it in abundance in our diet.

The Benefits of Vitamin C

1. It is an antioxidant. This means it can interrupt and protect against environmental and sun damage to our skin caused by free radicals. There’s even some research that suggests it has benefits applied AFTER exposure to the sun.
2. It can reduce wrinkles. It helps protect and promote collagen production which forms the structure of your dermis. More collagen = firmer skin = few wrinkles. That’s my favorite kind of math!
3. It brightens skin. This can clear up redness, reduce hyperpigmentation (too much pigmentation like sunspots and freckles), and even skintone.

In a nutshell, it’s the holy grail of youth in a bottle. If you don’t have it in your skincare routine, now’s the time to add it in.

What You Need To Know

1. Not all forms of vitamin C are equal.
   There are several different forms of vitamin. L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard. Other versions exist, but L-ascorbic acid is the purest form, it penetrates the skin the most efficiently, cannot be washed off easily and can linger in the skin for up to 72 hours. The downside is that the pH (which determines that it is an “acid”) can irritate some people. If you have sensitive skin, test it someplace in conspicuously to see if you react okay to it.
2. Concentration matters.
   Just like the TYPE of vitamin C matter, so does the concentration. You want to look for a concentration between 10% and 20%. Any lower and you aren’t getting the benefit. Any higher and you can irritate your skin.
3. Packaging matters.
   Vitamin C is very sensitive to oxidation. This means that it reacts to oxygen and loses potency as it breaks down. This sensitivity is actually why many skincare companies shy away from L-ascorbic acid. So, look for packaging that reduces the product’s exposure to air and light. It’s best if the bottle is dark, there is little exposure to air and you store it at a cool room temperature. It also means that this is one of the products where more isn’t ideal. Smaller bottles will stay fresher. If you have back ups, consider storing them in the fridge to prolong their life span.
4. Delivery mediums can vary.
   Vitamin C comes in a number of formats. It can be added to a cream, it can be a serum, or it can comes as a powder. Vitamin C is water soluble which means that it dissolves in water. This also can hasten the break down of the product. The skincare companies are always getting clever with their different delivery mediums to try to offset the product breakdown. Powder is the most stable form but it also means you have to mix it into a medium yourself. You run the risk of putting too high a concentration on your skin and suffering ill effects. My personal preference is using a vitamin C serum. Just keep an eye on the COLOR of the serum. When it’s fresh, it usually is clear but it will start to turn orange or brown as it ages. It loses effectiveness as it oxidizes so you want to use it while it’s fresh. NOTE: Some companies put other ingredients into their serum which can alter the base color. Be aware of this when you buy the product because it means you can’t judge its freshness as easily.
5. Plays well with others…sometimes.
   I won’t go into this just yet because we’ve probably covered enough for today. Just know that it plays well with some vitamins but doesn’t play well with others. The serums I’m recommending have some of the “vitamin cocktails” that make the serum super efficient and effective. Most of the time you are paying for it.

I like to use it first thing in the morning as the first serum to hit my skin after a quick cleanse or rinse. It is powerful so I want it to get into as much of my skin as possible. It absorbs quickly so I can also move onto other steps in my nutrient regime. You CAN use it at night. I don’t personally because I use other ingredients that don’t work well with it.

Top Contenders

There are a lot of options out there and if you are as fascinated with this little powerhouse in a bottle, I encourage you to look around. I find the range of options overwhelming so I’m giving you a narrowed version if you are interested. (BTW none of these are affiliate links. They are just for your convenience but shop around, you may find better prices even on the brands I mention.)

1. Skin Ceuticals C E Ferulic Acid with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid
   1. Pro – It has an award winning nutrient cocktail that makes this a favorite of dermatologists and scientists.
   2. Pro – It hits the sweet spot of 15% concentration.
   3. Pro – It comes packaged in a dark bottle with a dropper which helps limit oxidation.
   4. Con – It costs a whopping $166 per 1 oz bottle!!
2. Timeless Skin Care 20% Vitamin C E + Ferulic Acid Serum
   1. Pro – It has a similar award winning nutrient cocktail to help effectivness.
   2. Pro – It hits the high end of vitamin C concentration.
   3. Pro – They recently updated the packaging from a dark bottle to a completely opaque container and they moved from a dropper to a pump.
   4. Pro – This is super affordable at $26 per 1 oz. You can even find coupon codes to reduce the cost further!
   5. Con – If your skin is sensitive, the higher concentration might be irritating.
3. Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster
   1. Pro – Even though it’s not in the name, it contains a blend of E and Ferulic Acid to boost its effectiveness.
   2. Pro – It hits the same sweet spot of 15% concentration.
   3. Pro – The bottle is opaque with a dropper that helps reduce oxidation.
   4. Pro – This is a mid-range price point of $49 for .67 oz. (That’s about $73 for 1 oz if you want to compare apples to apples)
   5. Con – (see apples to apples above)
4. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Day Serum
   1. Pro – Uses L-ascorbic acid, E and Ferulic in the same potent cocktail
   2. Pro – Has 15% L-ascorbic acid.
   3. Pro – Probably my favorite packaging in an opaque bottle with a pump that is easy to travel with.
   4. Con – Pricier at $80 per 1 oz of product.
   5. Con – I find this one stings when I use it. It’s not painful, just a little less pleasant than the other serums.

I’ve personally used all of these (and more) and they are my favorite. I would recommend any of them to friends and family.

Remember, it can take six to eight weeks to start to see results but be patient. Always wear sunscreen, whether or not you are using vitamin C. Sunscreen with vitamin C will give your skin the best protection. And…it’s never too late to start (I’m looking at you, mom!).